What Moisturizers Actually Do
A moisturizer has three potential functions, and different products emphasize different ones:
Humectants draw water into the skin from the environment and from deeper layers of the skin itself. Common humectants include glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea, and propylene glycol. Humectants are what make a moisturizer feel hydrating and refreshing. They work best in humid environments — in very dry air, humectants can actually draw moisture out of the skin rather than into it.
Emollients fill in the microscopic gaps between skin cells, smoothing the skin’s surface and giving it a soft, supple feel. Common emollients include squalane, jojoba oil, ceramides, fatty acids, and various plant oils. Emollients are what make skin feel smooth to the touch. They’re the “feel-good” component of moisturizers.
Occlusives form a physical barrier on the surface of the skin that prevents water from evaporating. Common occlusives include petrolatum (Vaseline), mineral oil, shea butter, lanolin, and silicones (dimethicone). Occlusives are the heavy-hitters of moisturization — they’re what keep water in the skin, especially in dry environments and for dry skin types.
Most moisturizers combine all three functions in varying proportions. A lightweight gel moisturizer is mostly humectants with some emollients and minimal occlusives. A rich night cream is heavy on emollients and occlusives with fewer humectants. Understanding this framework lets you read an ingredient list and predict how a product will feel and perform.
The Texture Spectrum
Gels
What they are: Water-based formulations with high humectant content and minimal oil. Gels feel cooling on application and absorb almost instantly.
Best for: Oily skin, acne-prone skin, humid climates, and daytime use under makeup. Gels provide hydration without any greasy residue.
What to look for: Glycerin or hyaluronic acid high on the ingredient list, minimal oils or silicones. Aloe vera as a base is common and effective.
Our picks: Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel ($22), Clinique Moisture Surge ($44).
Gel-Creams
What they are: A hybrid texture that applies like a gel but has slightly more emollient content, providing a bit more moisture than a pure gel while maintaining a lightweight feel.
Best for: Combination skin, normal skin in summer, and anyone who finds gels too light but creams too heavy.
What to look for: The ingredient list should include both humectants and light emollients like squalane or jojoba oil.
Lotions
What they are: The middle of the texture spectrum. Lotions are emulsions of water and oil, with a higher water content than creams, making them lighter and more spreadable.
Best for: Normal skin, daytime use for most skin types, and body moisturization.
Our picks: CeraVe Daily Moisturizing Lotion ($14), La Roche-Posay Lipikar Lotion ($20).
Creams
What they are: Thicker than lotions, with a higher oil-to-water ratio. Creams provide more occlusive protection and last longer on the skin.
Best for: Dry skin, normal-to-dry skin in winter, and nighttime use. Creams are the default moisturizer format for a reason — they work well for the majority of skin types.
Our picks: CeraVe Moisturizing Cream ($18), Vanicream Moisturizing Cream ($14), Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore ($136).
Balms and Ointments
What they are: The heaviest moisturizer format, with very high occlusive content. Balms are semi-solid at room temperature and melt on contact with skin. They create an almost impermeable barrier that prevents water loss.
Best for: Extremely dry skin, compromised skin barriers, eczema, winter protection for hands and face, and overnight use on specific dry areas. Overuse on oily skin can cause congestion.
Our picks: La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5 ($16), Aquaphor Healing Ointment ($10).
How to Choose by Skin Type
Oily and acne-prone skin: Look for oil-free gels and gel-creams labeled “non-comedogenic” (won’t clog pores). Ingredients like niacinamide help regulate oil production while providing hydration. Avoid heavy creams and balms except for spot treatment on very dry areas.
Dry skin: Look for creams and balms with high emollient and occlusive content. Ingredients like ceramides, shea butter, and squalane provide lasting moisture. Layer a humectant serum (hyaluronic acid, glycerin) under your moisturizer for best results.
Combination skin: Use a lighter moisturizer all over and add a richer cream only on dry areas (typically the cheeks). Gel-creams and lightweight lotions are the sweet spot for most combination skin types. Alternatively, use a lighter moisturizer in the morning and a richer one at night.
Sensitive and reactive skin: Look for minimal ingredient lists with gentle, well-studied ingredients like ceramides, oat, centella, and panthenol. Avoid fragrance, essential oils, and complex botanical blends that increase the risk of irritation.
The Seasonal Switch
Your moisturizer should change with the seasons, even if your skin type doesn’t. In humid summer months, most skin types can drop down one level on the texture spectrum — from cream to lotion, from lotion to gel. In dry winter months, go up one level — from lotion to cream, from cream to balm for the driest areas. This simple seasonal adjustment prevents both summer
The Application Order
Moisturizer is typically the last step in a skincare routine, applied after cleansing, treating, and protecting. The correct sequence: cleanser, any water-based treatments (toners, essences, serums), moisturizer, sunscreen (AM). At night, moisturizer can be the final step, or you can apply an occlusive balm or facial oil over your moisturizer to seal everything in.
Moisturization is not optional. Even oily skin needs hydration — stripping the skin of moisture can trigger increased oil production as the skin tries to compensate. The right moisturizer, in the right texture, for your skin type and climate, is as fundamental to skincare as sunscreen.